Tea At The Ritz

Tea at The Ritz is the last delicious morsel of London. The light is kind, the cakes are frivolous and the tempo is calm, confident and leisurely. Takers of tea perch on rose-coloured Louis XVI chairs at marble tables, sipping their steaming cups of Darjeeling or Earl Grey.

The Palm Court is the Ritz's stage for afternoon tea. It is not surprised that there are no clocks and you would certainly forget about time. If you lean forward and look hard in the direction of the swing doors, it is possible to have glimpse of Piccadilly's taxis and buses. There is no doubt that the strange sense of taking a holiday from busy modern life enhances the pleasure of taking tea here. People dressed up and look more beautiful than they normally do, because The Palm Court's frosted glass ceiling allows the most flattering light in Europe fall on them, mildly and clearly.

Lady Diana Cooper remembers The Ritz as the first hotel where young women were allowed to go alone to tea. Barbara Cartland, the romantic novelist described tea at The Ritz after the First World War as "a useful institution for the 'also-ran' men: one could meet men, without chaperones, for lunch and tea, so you had lunch with men you were keen on, and tea with the rest."

Tea at The Ritz has always been extremely popular. A few years ago, crowds packed up at the steps of The Palm Court to wait for a table. Now it is necessary to reserve tea at The Ritz at least one month in advance. It is one the few places outside church or royal garden parties where a woman may wear a hat and feel entirely at ease. In fact, garments like jeans, shorts or sneakers will be firmly turned away.

"Tea at The Ritz is not only sandwiches and cakes but an Occasion," the Palm Court's waiter says. "Thank goodness there are still places like this for pure enjoyment, even in the modern world."